Benbow State Recreational Area
Benbow State Recreation Area
Garberville, CA – May, 2025
The Shining
I’ll admit, it was the Benbow Historic Inn that first caught my eye as we were driving toward the coast along the Avenue of the Giants—swooping and winding through sharp hills, tracing the path of the Eel River as it races toward the Pacific. Thankfully, I had the passenger seat, so I could look back and to the right and see it.
Driving along the 101 you’ll see a plethora of redwoods and ferns as snake along the Eel River.
“Wow, that was pretty,” I said aloud, and as those words formed, I caught sight of a dirt road meandering toward that unknown but beautiful building. Next exit—gotta get off.
It probably wasn’t the main road to the inn, but I’d wager it’s the most scenic.
Pulling into the Benbow Historic Inn felt exactly like every time I’ve stepped into a country club or resort I knew damn well I had no business being inside. The grounds were immaculate. The maintenance guy—clipping hedges with surgeon-like precision—wore brand-new Carhartt boots and a uniform that could pass for front-of-house at nearly any hotel in America.
The things inside the Benbow Historic Inn are probably fragile and expensive. And while I’m not unathletic, I could definitely be described as lacking grace. So, instead, we went camping across the street—and it was a wonderful decision.
Benbow Historic Inn—maybe one day I’ll see just how much like The Shining’s Stanley Hotel you really are. But not anytime soon. If you go, let me know—do they have a labyrinth? Can you suck back some bourbon and talk to the bartender because the words aren’t typing.
Benbow State Recreation Area
A nice escape to this bend on the Eel River. Spend the day jumping into the freezing water for an energizing refresher.
It was a Sunday afternoon when we left the inn and crossed the street—literally—to set up camp at Benbow State Recreation Area. The drive was all of three or four hundred yards.
The path leading to the campsite in Benbow SRA
We had our pick of campsites, and the map showed one lot with a nice path to the river. We picked that one. During our entire stay, maybe three other campers rolled through—and they all drove right on past, searching for more “private” spots. The beachhead was ours.
In my mind, you can’t beat the price for what you get: around thirty bucks for a site with electric hookups, bathrooms with showers, fire pits with grills, and a scenic walk to the river. What else could you ask for?
We unpacked, set up camp, and made our way to the Eel River. The walk was only a few minutes through tall grass and over rocks, ending at a mix of sand and smooth stones along the riverbank.
I’ve walked up to a castle overlooking Loch Ness in Scotland and immediately felt the weight of the place—like you could hear the echoes of battles and sense the lives lost over the centuries. Same thing at Gettysburg, Vicksburg, and other Civil War sites. I’m just some guy, but I believe in vibes. And those places? Heavy. Somber. Always.
But not here.
This little stretch along the Eel River, tucked in the Benbow State Recreation Area, radiates nothing but peace. Calm. Stillness. Joy. Maybe I’m talking out of my ass—maybe I’m not—but I doubt many bad things have ever happened here. On a nice day, with the sun shining, I’m not sure it’s even possible to have a bad day.
The crystal clear water will invite you, but are you strong enough to handle to cold?!
We didn’t.
We spent the day daring each other to jump in, to see how long we could last in the glacier-fed water before our skin went numb. The kind of day where your face hurts from smiling—part awe, part company, fully content.
These things don’t usually align. And lately, they’ve been aligning every day.
I’m just some guy, but the lucky streak has been real.
Tomorrow, we may finally make it to Glass Beach.
Or maybe—like today—we’ll get caught up in a whisper from Mother Nature.
High road or low road, you decide. Both are fun.
